VIBE FAQ's

These are the most frequently asked questions we get about our Classic Vibe CV-2TM and Vibe-Baby CV-2TM vibes which I have posted here for you as it saves me from re-typing all this stuff answering email questions.

 


 

Q:  "Do you have any Classic Vibe CV-2TM or  Vibe-Baby CV-2TM ready-to-ship?"

A:   No, we build each Classic Vibe CV-2TM and Vibe-Baby CV-2TM per order, at Classic Amplification we are a bespoke business, when you order and pay, then we build and ship. The time is normally between 7-21 days from order to ship.

 


 

Q:  "What is the difference in sound/tone between the Classic Vibe CV-2TM and Vibe-BabyTM?"

A:   None.

The Classic Vibe CV-2TM is voiced to closely emulate a few specific vintage uni-vibes that have come through my shop. The original vintage Uni-Vibe effect pedal has a noticably smoother sound than contemporary vibes, one might even say a bit less pronounced and no (or very little) quirky-jerk at the end of the sweep, and the sweep seems almost asymetrical.

 


 

Q:  "Does the Classic Vibe CV-2TM and  Vibe-Baby CV-2TM have a True Bypass switch"

A:   Yes, our Classic Vibe CV-2TM and Vibe-Baby CV-2TM both have true bypass mechanical switches to completely remove the effect circuitry from your signal chain when not in use. The original vintage Uni-Vibe did not have true bypass at all, we add it just because modern pedal users expect it. True Bypass makes absolutely no contribution to getting the vintage sound/tone.

Those who are after the traditional Hendrix/Trower/Gilmour sounds will not (exactly) achieve it using true bypass for I/O, you should be using the "Cancel" switch which leaves the vibe's preamp engaged (instead of bypassed out) which is a big part of getting the sound.

The Vibe-Baby CV-2TM uses a side mounted DPDT bypass switch mounted on the side next to the INTENSITY knob. Using the Vibe-Baby CV-2TM, one should use true bypass only for setting-up the pedal (in/out of the signal chain) before and after the song it is needed for, and the actual starting/stopping of the vibe'ing effect (during a song) should always be done with the heel-down "cancel" function. This most closely emulates the true vintage use of the pedal.

 


 

Q:  "Does the Vibe-Baby have the heel-down "cancel" like the original univibe's speed pedal?"

A:   Yes, our Vibe-Baby CV-2TM has heel-down "cancel" just like the original uni-vibe's foot control pedal did. The cancel function is the method you would use to start/stop the vibe during a song performance.

 


 

Q:  "Is "Cancel" the same thing as "True Bypass"

A:   No.

Original vintage Uni-Vibe pedals had no true bypass option, instead they used a "Cancel" switch which was a method of turning on/off the noticable effect but the whole signal chain was still intact and not bypassed.

What the cancel switch does is stop the internal light bulb (lamp) from flashing, which in turn causes the sound to stop modulating. The following cartoons demonstrate the difference:

 

 

 

 


 

Q:  "What polarity should the power plug be on my power pack?"

A:   Polarity of your power plug does not matter, the Classic Vibe CV-2TM and Vibe-Baby CV-2TM have self-correcting polarity.

 


 

Q:  "Why 18v and not 9v like other pedals?"

A:   Because at 9v a vibe just doesnt sound right, not like an original Uni-Vibe anyway.

The original vintage Uni-Vibe pedals plugged into the AC mains and internally had a step-down transformer that supplied 21.5vDC. Modern power packs and supplies are rarely found in 20v or 22v versions so we chose to go with 18v and modified the internal bulb driver circuitry slightly to optimise for 18v. Prior to March 2017 we used to make separate versions of our Classic Vibe CV-2TM and  Vibe-Baby CV-2TM pedals of 9V and 18V which meant we had to build 4 different versions of our pedals which all use 18V internally so this just didn't work for us (production wise) so now we build them all to run on 18v and offer the BoosterBoxTM solution if you are a 9v or nothing type.

For those with pedalboard power units which do not supply the required 18v/300mA we can supply an external 9v-18v power Booster-Box ($25.00) that can be used on a power channel on many pedalboard power units of 9v/400mA at an additional cost.


$25.00 (+shipping)

 

 


 

Q:  "What pedalboard power units work with the BoosterBoxTM?"

A:   I personally prefer (and use) the Decibel Eleven Hot Stone Deluxe power unit which works very well and also important to me that it has a dual voltage AC mains switch 120v-240v so I can travel without a mains voltage adapter.

 

This list of power units from both our own testing, and customer feedback, are known to work-well/not-work:

 

The List:

CIOKS DC10

               

use a 9/12V 200mA or 400mA channel

CIOKS ADAM

               

use one of the 9V 250mA power channels

Decibel Eleven Hot Stone Deluxe

               

use one of the 9V-12V 400mA channels

Voodoo Lab MONDO and ISO-5

               

use the 9V-400mA channel

Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2

               

Only if internally modified

Voodoo Lab Pedal Power 2+

               

use channel 5 or 6

Pedaltrain Powertrain 1250

               

18V port does not have enough mA output

Visual Sound One Spot

               

Bad noise problems

MXR DC Brick

               

Bad noise problems.
Outputs are not "isolated"

Furman SPB-8

               

Noise problems.
Outputs are not "isolated"

 

 

A larger list of isolated power units which may work for you can be found here Isolated Power Unit List. If you use any of these on one of our vibes and find it works well please let us know.

 


 

Never use stacking or daisy-chain power cable adaptors (which couple two 9V channels together) this always causes noise problems such as "regulator cry"

 

 

When_Regulators_Cry.mp3

Many "regulated" power units and wall-warts do this when used with a vintage vibe circuit and regulator cry is not unique to the Voodoo Labs PP2 and PP2+ but it is a popular unit owned by many so I mention them here. I can modify your PP2/PP2+ for you, and in fact the PP2 and PP2+ work excellent powering a vibe when this mod has been made. You just need to wait until your 1-year warranty has expired and click/tap here for details.

Regarding wall-wart power packs, a quick look at this Wiki page and one will realize why we can't supply the many different wall-plug adaptors for other countries, there are just too many different types. For international customers I can recommend a couple part numbers at RS (Radio Spares).

 


 

Q:  "Can you tell me what type of power-pack/wall-wart/plug-pak to get?"

A:   Generally most "Linear" type work best, this type has a small transformer inside. Some "Switching" types will work too.

 


 

Q:  "I already have a power-pack/wall-wart/plug-pak here, will it work?"

A:   Maybe, maybe not. No way I can tell from here.
   (yes, this an actual question I've been asked B4)

Be aware that some "Linear" types are made with internal voltage regulators, these are generally known as a "Regulated" power pack usually indicated somewhere on the unit but not always.

Many regulated units work but be aware some of the voltage regulators used in the less expensive ones can cause a weird background noise that sounds like a whine in sync with the Vibe's speed which we call "regulator cry".

Many switching type power packs will work, but some won't (like the single 1-spot unit), and the ones that don't will make weird noises in the vibe unit. Not all "switching" types do this and you might find one that works fine, for instance I have a couple in the shop and one is from a Panasonic cordless telephone which works just fine on a vibe so it's hit-n-miss on using "switching" type power packs, be aware, and try them out before you need to gig with it.

 

This picture shows a "Switching" type power pack next to a "Linear" type, the linear type is much heavier than a switching type due to the small transformer inside:

 

 


 

Q:  "Why does the Speed setting interact with the Intensity setting?"

A:   It because of the old-school design of the LFO.

The "Low Frequency Oscillator" (commonly referred to as the LFO) is where this happens as it drives the lamp part of the circuit.

The LFO in a Uni-Vibe, and our Classic Vibe CV-2TM and Vibe-Baby CV-2TM is an old design which by todays standards would not be used in an effect pedal. Without getting into the electronics of it all, it's easier to understand that there is a sweet spot for the LFO and Lamp Driver circuits where the LFO provides more drive in the middle of the speed range. It is a non-linear thing which is also why a vintage vibe sounds different a modern (ie; Dunlop FET type) vibe.

This graphic shows how the signal increases in the middle of the speed range and is diminished at the extreme ends of the range:

It is a weird side-effect of the vintage design, but if we "fix" it, we loose some of the unique character of the vintage pedal and so we keep it in our Classic Vibe CV-2TM and Vibe-Baby CV-2TM to retain the true character of a vintage Uni-Vibe.

 

 


 

All references on this page to the name "Uni-Vibe" are specifically referencing the original effect pedal made in Japan by the Shin Ei Co in the late 1960's to mid 1970's and not any other brand or maker of vibe pedals. Currently the trade name Uni-Vibe® is a registered trademark of Dunlop Manufacturing who does not manufacture vibes like the vintage Shin-Ei (Japan) uni-vibes pictured on this webpage, they make their own version which does not use Lamp & Photocells as the vintage (Shin-Ei Japan) units did. Also there is an LLC registered in the USA state of Texas as "Shin Ei" claiming to be the original Shin Ei (of Japan) which it is not.

 


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